Cheval Blanc Paris

There is no more dramatic setting for a Paris hotel. Cheval Blanc sits in the riverfront Art Deco wing of the historic Samaritaine — LVMH's landmark restoration of the site — right on the Seine, facing the Pont Neuf and a two-minute walk from the Louvre. Next door, the famous Samaritaine department store (also LVMH) has been reborn as a luxury emporium and is a destination in its own right. Opened in 2021 and designed in its entirety by Peter Marino, the hotel is contemporary and deeply luxurious rather than classically "palace" — a deliberate counterpoint to the city's grand old dames. Service, as you'd expect of an LVMH maison, is polished and personal from the moment you arrive.

Cheval Blanc's rooms are among the largest in Paris — the entry category starts at around 45 square metres, and the 72 keys skew heavily toward suites. Ours was calm and light, in Peter Marino's soft, textured palette of cream and gold, with an uncluttered, serene feel and the kind of space that is genuinely rare in the centre of the city. The comfort is total: an excellent bed, a generous sitting area, and technology that works without a fight. This is a room to settle into, not just sleep in.

The bathrooms match the rooms for generosity — marble, twin basins and a deep tub, with the larger suite categories adding a private hammam. It becomes part of the stay rather than an errand. Everything is finished to LVMH standards, down to the products and the fittings.

The pool is the hotel's showpiece, and deservedly famous — a 30-metre mosaic-tiled lap pool on the lower level, wrapped by a vast screen that plays the changing light of the Seine through the day. It is one of the largest hotel pools in central Paris and, quite simply, a spectacular place to swim. Even non-swimmers come down to see it; it has become one of the defining images of the new Paris luxury scene.

The spa is Dior Spa Cheval Blanc — the world's first Dior spa, and a destination in itself. Six treatment suites, each themed around a facet of the House of Dior, offer treatments you can't get elsewhere, alongside steam, sauna and quiet relaxation areas. It is unusually complete for a city hotel, and the standard of therapy matches the setting.

Beyond the spa there is a well-equipped fitness room and a dedicated yoga and movement studio — more wellness provision than most Paris hotels bother with, and a genuine draw for longer or family stays.

Dining is a serious strength — arguably the best of any hotel in Paris. The headline is Plénitude, Arnaud Donckele's restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars. Up on the seventh floor, Le Tout-Paris is a glamorous French brasserie opening onto a panoramic terrace with sweeping views across the rooftops and the Seine, while Langosteria brings the cult Milanese seafood house to the same level. On the ground floor, Limbar — Maxime Frédéric's café and patisserie — is worth a stop for the pastries alone. Breakfast, taken up on the rooftop, is a highlight in its own right, and one of the loveliest ways to start a Paris morning.

Cheval Blanc is unusually good for families — rare at this level in Paris. There is a dedicated children's room and kids' programme, the suites are large enough for a family to spread out, and the whole approach is welcoming rather than merely tolerant of children. With the pool alongside, it makes a compelling multi-generational base in the city.

What sets Cheval Blanc apart is the generosity behind the scenes. Our stay included touches most Paris hotels charge for or simply don't offer — a complimentary house car for trips around the city, airport transfers and a complimentary non-alcoholic minibar — and the service has the anticipatory, all-is-possible quality of the best LVMH addresses. It is expensive, but it delivers a level of inclusion and care that makes the price easier to understand.

Cheval Blanc Paris is the boldest and most complete of the new-wave Paris palaces — a landmark building, enormous rooms, a three-star kitchen, a rooftop and a pool that are destinations in their own right, and LVMH service to match. It is not the choice for old-world Parisian romance; it is the choice for modern luxury done at full volume. Perfect for: Design lovers, families, food lovers, and anyone who wants the most spacious rooms and the most complete facilities in central Paris Skip if: You're after intimate, classic, old-Paris charm or a small boutique feel Book the: A suite if the budget allows — for the space and, in the top categories, a private hammam — and don't miss a swim in the pool and a meal (or just breakfast) on the seventh-floor rooftop.